Nathan’s Blog

So we’re about to set off on our very own motorbike adventure. Non of this guide lark like we did in the Central Highlands of Vietnam, oh no; just me, Lau, 2 day packs and a green moped for the next 4 days.

The route we’re doing is called “The Loop” and covers about 400km, taking in caves, springs and mountains. We’d taken a photo of a Goonies stylee map drawn in a book at the guesthouse by the mysterious Claudia.

For those coming here from the advice book in the Thakeak Travel Lodge guesthouse, I’ve not yet out the way points up. Sorry. Will do it soon.

Day 1

I took delivery of our moped at 07:00 and, after feeling the tires and filddling with a few things like a real man, I accepted it, leaving my passport as collateral.

Here she is, our very own Green Goddess:

110cc’s of raw power. We’re going to lay down some rubber!! I did try to get a 250cc off-road bike, but there were no places that hired them in Thakaek. Probably for the best.

After breakie, we set off on the first segment of the trip up to a village near Konglor Cave. It was the biggest day for distance, but they were easy miles on a proper road – luxury.

As we began climbing into the mountains on a sweeping road my heart sank as the bike began spluttering in the only way an engine splutters when it’s out of fuel. Bugger. What was it we’d read that very morning in the Travellers Tips book at the guesthouse – “Tip 2: Stop at EVERY petrol station and fill up”. Bugger. Bugger. Bugger.

So, there we were stopped on a steep incline in the middle of nowhere. Lau suggested we try the engine again. My ever so logical self started mocking immidietely (I think it was something involving the Petrol Fairy or the Patron St. of Fuel), but I tried the engine, more to proove a point than anything else. Hey presto, the little beauty started! Laura took over the mocking as we gingerly set off over the peak with stunning views over the limestone formations and forest below.

As we decended the other side of the peak the bike began making all manner of ill sounding noises, including loud cracks as it backfired. We wished a petrol station with every turn as we wound our way down to the plain, but none came, not even mirage ones. Then, as the road straightened out two things happened simultaneously: the bike finally gave up and choked to a stop, and a petrol station appeared on the horizon! 300m of pushing and then “Fill her up please!”.

A couple of k’s after the petrol station was our turning that would eventually take us down to Konglor Cave. After a while the nice tarmac road gave way to a red dust track.

We stopped for nice big lunch at Sain Amhi Resort. So big that I needed a little snooze before we hit the road again.

Shorty after lunch, we had a little incident on one of the rickity wooden bridges that needed a foot putting down at speed – not something I’ll be doing again in a hurry. Certainly shook off what remained of my post-lunch drowsiness!

We arrived at the village in the late afternoon and after doing a loop through it and waving at all the kids we eventually found a homestay. After dumping our gear we took a deck of cards and went to find some Beer Lao. We were soon joined by a troupe of scamps who enthusiastically clapped every time Lau won a hand, which as anyone who has played cards with her will know, was quite often!

Day 2

After being woken up at rooster-o’clock (I swear there was one in our room!) we headed for breakfast. Before we ate, the man of the house performed a little ceromony that involved us each holding some sticky rice and an egg in our hands as he did a little chant and tied a friendship braclet around our wrists. We were exchanging “this is quite cool” glances as he went. He then guided us to go ahead and eat the rice and egg. I crakced into mine and started to eat this pre-breakfast treat, worrying that if I didn’t I would offend his honour and the village chief would be brought in before you could say “impale him”. As Lau cracked into hers a smell poured out that knocked me sick – her egg was rotten. The host looked mortified and I’m not too sure of the significance but it probably as lucky as seeing a magpie riding a black cat, on Friday 13th.

After breakfast we headed down to Konglor Cave – a massive cave that led 7km into the limestone. We made our way from one side to the other and back again on a traditional boat. We had to stop occasionally and get out as the river was low in some points as we’re at the height of the dry season. They guys just pointed into the pitch black and said “walk” – we had no idea where we were going half the time! You gotta love health and saftety in SEA. After aboout an hour or so we reached the main attraction: a cavernous staligmite/stalignite forest. It was lit with different coloured lights and was beautiful. It reminded me of One Eyed Willy’s cave from the Goonies!

As we came back though the cave I thought it was a bit darker than it was coming. It took me a good 5 minutes, after messing with the battery in the torch, to realise I still had my sun glasses on.

We set off from the cave in the late morning and began the drive to Lak Xao. We stopped on the way to cool off in what is officially known as The Cool Spring. We broke off from the main road in order to find it at the end of a dirt track after some serious off-roading on our humble moped. We managed to scare ourselves into thinking that all manner of creatures were murking in the spring and very nearly didn’t go in. In the end we plucked up the courage and slowly edged our way in. We both freaked out at different points and managed to fall off slippery rocks back into the spring – Lau has an allmighty bruise on her arse as a souvenir!

We arrived in Lak Xao late in the afternoon. What a shit hole Lak Xao is. It’s a small town built up around the 4 roads that form a crossroad in it’s centre.

More to come ….

Day 3

Day 4

Today was cave day.